The Fox Behind the Logo: Fjällräven and Fashion's Sustainability Dilemma

Sustainability is one of the most popular words in fashion right now. Patagonia advocates for repairs over replacements, and Stella McCartney leads the way in cruelty-free luxury. Brands are racing to demonstrate their commitment to the environment. The fashion industry still faces challenges with contradictions and even hidden scandals, despite its use of green marketing and simple designs. Fjällräven is a Swedish outdoor brand renowned worldwide for its Kånken backpack, featuring a bright fox logo.

Illustration by Dana Davis; Photos by Maria Adelmann & Derek Denman (The New York Times, 2025)

The Fox Logo's Rise

The Kånken bag from Fjällräven, which was designed in 1978 to prevent Swedish schoolchildren from developing back problems, has become a must-have item. The backpack is everywhere, from hipsters in Berlin to college students in Tokyo. Its appeal stems from its simple design, useful features, and eco-friendly message. The company frequently discusses the use of eco-friendly materials, such as G-1000 Eco fabric, and initiates projects like the Arctic Fox Initiative, which funds environmental conservation efforts.

The Shadows That Are Hidden

But there is a darker story behind the fox logo. Some people argue that Fjällräven's advertising exaggerates its environmental impact. In recent years, studies of supply chains have raised concerns about:

• Animal Welfare: The brand pushes synthetic alternatives, but there have been problems with tracking wool and down in outdoor gear throughout the industry. Canada Goose and The North Face are also being looked at.

• Accusations of greenwashing: Fjällräven claims to be an eco-pioneer, but some reports question how much real progress has been made compared to what the company says. This is not an isolated case. H&M's Conscious Collection, Zara's Join Life, and Uniqlo's sustainability campaigns, which are often accused of using marketing spin, are just a few examples of the widespread nature of greenwashing in the industry.

• Overconsumption Paradox: The Kånken was first made to be a practical, long-lasting schoolbag, but now it's a fashion statement that comes in many colors. This contradicts the brand's minimalist, nature-focused image by creating a cycle of mass production and consumption, much like Nike Air Jordans or Louis Vuitton handbags do.

What Other Brands Can Teach Us

These problems aren't unique to Fjällräven. Adidas has partnered with Parley for the Oceans to create shoes from recycled ocean plastics; however, the company still utilizes a significant amount of plastic overall. Gucci, which is part of the Kering Group, claims to be carbon neutral, but there are still debates about the source of its leather. Burberry, which was once criticized for burning unsold stock, has since changed its image to focus on sustainability.

These examples demonstrate that sustainability is now a crucial aspect of fashion branding, but it's easy to distinguish between genuine innovation and greenwashing. Importantly, it's the audience, especially Gen Z, who are becoming more critical and demanding more than just slogans. They are the ones driving the need for complete transparency in the industry. What This Means for Fashion Advertising

Fjällräven's story is a lesson in both success and caution for fashion marketers. The fox, a strong brand logo, created an identity that millions trust, but any cracks in authenticity can hurt this image. Students in our Fashion Marketing Program at Raffles Jakarta examine these problems: How do companies convey their stories while remaining honest? How do marketers deal with moral issues while still making sales? Our program equips students with the knowledge and skills to navigate these complex issues, fostering a new generation of fashion marketers who prioritize sustainability and transparency. It's not just about selling shoes or bags; it's also about making the fashion industry more responsible in the future.

Arman POUREISA

Marketing Manager

Business Management Lecturer

Raffles Jakarta

References

Fjällräven. (2024). Sustainability and the Arctic Fox Initiative. https://www.fjallraven.com

H&M Group. (2023). Sustainability report 2022. https://hmgroup.com

Kering. (2023). Environmental profit & loss report. https://kering.com

Patagonia. (2023). Worn wear initiative. https://www.patagonia.com

The New York Times. (2025). Classic Fjällräven Kånken backpack review. https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/reviews/classic-fjallraven-kanken-backpack/

Vogue Business. (2023). Fashion’s battle with greenwashing. https://www.voguebusiness.com